Introducing the Bremont Armed Forces Collection, Produced in Partnership With the Ministry of Defence

Bremont has a long history of partnering with military organizations for special, limited-edition collections. The brand’s latest collaboration is their biggest yet — the UK-based firm is working with the Ministry of Defence to produce a series they’ve aptly dubbed the Armed Forces Collection. As the MoD’s official watch partner, Bremont will become the sole watch manufacturer allowed to officially use the signs and heraldry of the Royal Navy, British Army, and the Royal Air Force. It is, however, worth noting that these are not commissioned pieces, and what makes this partnership distinct from past military collaborations is that these watches are available to civilians.

Inspired by the legendary “Dirty Dozen” WWW timepieces, the new collection is built around three watches: Broadsword, Arrow, and Argonaut.

History snapshot: During World War II, the British imported Swiss wristwatches and issued them under the A.T.P. moniker (Army Trade Pattern); most of these were 29–33-millimeter chrome or steel-cased watches with white or silver dials, luminous pips or baton indices, running central or sub-seconds, and 15-jewel movements with snap or screw back cases. However, the MoD eventually decided that these watches, which were essentially civilian models with military dials and spec/issue numbers, weren’t cutting it in the field, and they drew up a specification for a new wristwatch designed to fit the particular needs of Her Majesty’s Government — an ideal military watch where, yes, form followed function. 

The new spec resulted in the W.W.W., the acronym for Wrist, Watch, Waterproof, but the watches themselves have become known colloquially as “The Dirty Dozen,” both as a reference to the famous 1967 war film, and because the timepieces were produced by a total of 12 Swiss firms. Click here to learn more

Broadsword

The Broadsword (Army) is the most obvious nod to the Dirty Dozen. It’s a simple three-hander with a date at 3 and a small-seconds indicator above 6. The case measures 40 millimeters across and is rated to 100 meters.

Arrow

The Arrow (Royal Air Force) is a mono-pusher chronograph that riffs on the classic Dirty Dozen design, integrating two chronograph registers at 3 and 9. The case measures 42 millimeters across and is rated to 100 meters.

Argonaut

Lastly, the Argonaut is a dual-crown (at 2 and 4) diver with an internal rotating bezel. The 42-millimeter case is rated to 300 meters.

All three watches abandon Bremont’s standard Trip Tick case for a simplified two-piece construction. Nevertheless, the steel here is hardened just like past Bremont watches, and all three are COSC-certified. Around back, each model features closed case backs adorned with MoD heraldry. Available straps include green and blue sailcloth and black rubber. 

Of the three, the simple Broadsword is my favorite, though I’m always happy to see a mono-pusher chronograph thrown into the mix. Personally, the Argonaut feels like a bit of an outlier, though I understand its inclusion here to complete the trifecta.

Bremont has priced these more aggressively relative to the rest of their catalog: the Broadsword is $3,445, the Arrow is $4,745, and the Argonaut is $3,695. Perhaps some of the cost cutting comes down to the simplified case, or perhaps Bremont is looking at their industry peers and noting that that the $3,000 – $5,000 space is now quite competitive. Either way, this is an interesting partnership and I’m curious to see if this is a one-and-done deal or if it grows in the years in to come.  Bremont