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In the Fall of 2023, I organized a RedBar event in Prague for Marco Lang, Stefan Kudoke, and Jochen Benzinger. During the event I met two young guys who looked in their early twenties, enjoying fresh Pilsner beer. When we raised our glasses to cheer, I noticed his wrist and had a hard time believing what I saw.
The young man introduced himself as Thibault Claeys and said this is their first watch. The other young man introduced himself as Johannes Kallinich. While I looked at the watch, Thibault told me that both of them worked at A. Lange & Söhne until recently. Johannes was the head of the Lange 1 department and a certified Master Watchmaker with a deep understanding of technical construction. Thibault, on the other hand, graduated from watchmaking school in Antwerp, and joined the Lange 1815 department. His expertise lies in finishing techniques, and he plays MacGyver with all the machines and tooling.
The next encounter with Thibault and Johannes was a planned visit to their atelier in the summer of 2024. Their small workshop is located right next to Nomos headquarters, and directly opposite from the SUG case workshop in Glashütte. The workshop is framed all around by large windows, an inspiration they took from Akrivia and Rexhep Rexhepi.
Thibault walked me through “his side” of the workshop first where he built his own CNC milling machine. You see all the contraptions he built himself for making parts or for finishing of the parts. He says it actually all started with a smaller version of this CNC in his apartment, but he was glad to move into this workshop. Kallinich Claeys is the tenth watch company in Glashütte.
Thibault is a perfectionist when it comes to finishing, and as seen in their first “Founders Edition” watch, he chooses contemporary patterns rather than traditional finishing patterns. On the gears, instead of using a snailing pattern, he uses circular graining. He also uses shark gill engraving on the balance cock, inspired by Mercedes 300SL, instead of the traditional floral pattern. Thibault spends 2-3 hours on the finishing of each hand where inside chamfering is the most difficult of his tasks. He emphatically states that finishing is top priority for him and proudly highlights all of the 19 inner angles (anglage) on the movement finishing on the Founders Edition.
The 41mm steel case was not easy for them to source since they had specific requirements including a power reserve window. Ultimately, they were able to source a case that met their standards through the RM Lifestyle factory based in Pforzheim. Many independent watch brands work with RM Lifestyle, and some larger brands as well. For instance, RM Lifestyle is the exclusive supplier of cases to Glashütte Original.
Thibault originally planned an enamel dial for the Founders Edition, but, not satisfied with the results, went with a hand-engraved dial with galvanic plating. I can see some inspiration from Rexhep Rexhepi in the geometric pattern, but with their own Saxonian panache. Currently, pad printing of the dial is outsourced, but it is a matter of time until Thibault brings this process in-house.
Johannes sits and manages the other side of the workshop with movement design construction, final assembly, and everything technical in-between. He follows the Lange method of double assembly, and it takes 4-5 days to put the movement together, take it apart, and put it all together again. The base plate and bridges are made of German silver, which nowadays big brands are abandoning due to cost cutting.
At their current capacity, Johannes and Thibault complete one watch per month.
Earlier this month, during Watches & Wonders, Johannes and Thibault were invited by AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants) to present their work in the Geneva exhibition organized by the AHCI organization. They showcased the sold out Einser Central Seconds edition and the commissioned Hong Kong Edition (a new dial variation).
Both young watchmakers receive guidance and mentorship from Marco Lang and Stefan Kudoke. Marco and Stefan are a great influence, helping to keep them grounded while pushing their skill level. When I look around the Swiss independent watchmaking scene, there is a new talented watchmaker announcing a “Souscription” edition north of 80,000 CHF almost every other week. The social media influencers and insider collectors trying to get in on the ground floor are pushing first edition prices to unbelievable levels. Not everyone is Rexhep Rexhepi, that’s why he is an exception. Even Berlin based Felipe Pikullik is a great talent, but his finishing on Unitas based movements is work in progress. His watches are commanding north of 25,000 Euros. That is insane!
It makes you appreciate Kallinich Claeys watches, with a price set at 24,900 Euros, that much more. They know they are starting their journey and have a lot of room to grow. This is a healthy attitude for independent watchmaking. Kallinich Claeys
