[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Every year, the watch industry plays the popular game “my favorite release from Watches and Wonders”. We try to pick unique watches, offer a unique perspective on them, and potentially shine a light on a model that we think deserves the title. However, I genuinely believe that if you told every one of those journalists that they had to purchase a watch announced at the show, roughly half would choose a different piece. They would most likely select something that suits their style better, fits into their collection, or maybe doesn’t shine as the most impressive piece but is still the one they want to take home. I am guilty of this.

For two years in a row now, my “forced to purchase” choice has been a Tudor watch. Last year, the Black Bay ‘Monochrome’ made my purchasing shortlist further cemented after I had the chance to go hands-on with it for an extended period. The new black on black color scheme looked great, the METAS-certified caliber is impressive, and that five-link bracelet just wears incredibly well. But while last year’s Black Bay “Monochrome” was simply a new color extension, the Pelagos Ultra redefines the collection while setting a few benchmarks along the way. Touted as Tudor’s most technologically advanced watch yet, it somehow stuffs the stat sheet while remaining wearable.

The lightweight case crafted from grade 2 titanium with a grade 5 caseback wears better than the 43mm diameter might lead on. At 14.5mm thick with a lug-to-lug of 52mm, it indeed sits on the larger side of things, though it benefits from the weight savings offered by the material choice. The slight curve in the case architecture helps it hug the wrist, while the bracelet or included rubber strap offers a secure fit. While my wrist shots may not do it justice as my 7.67in wrist dwarfs most pieces, giving them a slimmer visual diameter than is the case, I encourage you to try the new Pelagos Ultra on if you are on the fence simply based on size. 

Adding value and versatility, Tudor includes a rubber strap in the box with a matching brushed titanium buckle. The rubber is pliable and comfortable, affixed to the case with a female endlink. I have been critical of the aesthetic of this endlink design, as I find it adds visual heft and clunkiness to the watch as a whole. Let’s be honest here, this watch was meant to be paired with its overengineered bracelet. Carrying the same tight satin brushing, the three-link bracelet tapers away from the 22mm lugs before meeting the clasp, which is perhaps the star of the show. A latched foldover design, it manages to hold the Tudor T-Fit on the fly adjustment system, the unique Pelagos spring expansion system, and a traditional fold-out divers extension in a still adequate slim package. 

The simple act of removing screws to subtract links and then fiddling with the T-Fit makes it very easy to find the perfect fit regardless of your wrist size. This clasp system allows for quick and precise fitting, accommodating changes in size due to temperature fluctuations. Adding a bit of fun through a visual indicator, a small block of teal lume is attached to the internal system to show the wearer the clasps’ position day or night. Useful? No, not at all, but it is cool. It all adds up to make for a customizable package that can adjust to your needs at any time. 

In terms of finishing, the Pelagos Ultra retains similar applications of radial satin brushing on its top case surface, sneaking in facets and curves to break up its flat surfaces. Visually, the brushed lines have been tightened up from the original, giving the new Ultra a more matte grey appearance at a distance. It is unapologetically toolish in terms of visual design, aimed at minimizing reflections, reducing visual wear from regular use, and flying a bit under the radar. That core principle drives the rest of the visuals on this new Pelagos, borrowing elements from its predecessors to reduce yet refine its look. 

New yet familiar, the bezel and dial combination pulls inspiration from the Pelagos line while tweaking parts slightly for its own aesthetic. The 60-click unidirectional bezel clicks firmly with fantastic action, with improved toothiness for better grip. Back is the matte bezel insert here, cast in ceramic with fully luminous markings. A personal aside, I was never a fan of the sunburst finishing debuting on the Pelagos 39 and am happy to see the return of a more subdued look. Beneath the flat sapphire crystal, though, lies a dial design more closely related to its sized-down sibling. 

Gone again is the sloping rehaute forced aside by hour indices, much to my chagrin. Instead, the white printed minute track runs on its own slightly elevated ring before making way for the primary dial surface. Carrying the same matte black finish, the dial holds space for the monolithic white blocks of lume, contrasting during the day and glowing incredibly well at night, except at three, where a faceted date window makes its return. Bold Tudor snowflake hands handle time telling, each carrying their own generous lume application with the hour and second hand glowing in a pale blue while the minute hand emits a pale green. Legibility is fantastic regardless of the lighting conditions, ready to aid the daring explorer or the desk diver with capable timing. 

Distracted by the teal accenting at first glance, the casual enthusiast may have overlooked the changes in dial text accompanying the Ultra. With the Tudor shield, wordmark, and “Gevenve” printed in white near twelve, the dial text at six has been reduced to just three lines, achieving better visual balance. To be blunt, the five-line book and four-line manual on the original Pelagos and Pelagos 39, respectively, are a bit ridiculous and distracting, throwing off the visual balance of the overall design language. On the Ultra, it allows the shield and teal printing to pop without overpowering or cluttering the surface. Sure, “Geneve” and “Swiss Made” may be a bit redundant, but it’s a step in the right direction. On top of that, two of those lines call out important achievements for the Pelagos Ultra. 

As indicated on the dial, the Pelagos Ultra is capable of a whopping 1000 meters of water resistance. A staggering number that, hopefully, no one will ever put to the test. Do we need it? No. Do we love beefy specs? Oh, yeah, we do. This new depth, no doubt, is the culprit for the flatter dial construction necessary in saving space for gaskets without greatly increasing the thickness of the case. Should you take the Pelagos Ultra to depth, you can also rest assured knowing that the helium escape valve will help regulate pressure, preventing blown crystals or other malfunctions. That being said, it is the line printed above the depth rating that perhaps deserves a bit more attention.

For the first time, the Pelagos line now includes a caliber achieving the impressive distinction of Master Chronometer Certification (METAS). A wave is slowly making its way throughout the Tudor lineup. METAS certification ensures further accuracy, performance, and the all-important magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss, making the movement more capable than ever. Powered by the in-house manufactured automatic calibre MT5612-U, the Pelagos Ultra will maintain accuracy of 0 to +5 seconds per day. The certification, though, does tend to come with one small drawback: a slight reduction in power reserve. That being said, 65 hours of power reserve is still more than enough for most, and the 5-hour difference is a willing sacrifice for the added precision and peace of mind. 

Exceeding the needs of professional divers while appealing to the average enthusiast, it’s easy to call the new flagship Pelagos Ultra a slam dunk win for Tudor. While it is now their most expensive diver at $6,100 at the time of writing, it is hard to find much competition at the price point. I knew that I would like the watch, but I honestly didn’t expect it to propel itself near the top of my list. A beautiful combination of technically refined and absurdly fun, the Pelagos Ultra brings the Pelagos line back to the forefront of enthusiast minds once again as a collection not to be trifled with. Touted as Tudor’s most technological dive watch, it does force one to ask where they go from here. The answer, most likely, will be dial color product line extensions. That said, I’m hoping that Tudor continues to push the limits and capabilities of their dive watch line, packed into an everyday wearable package. Tudor