Latest Review
I had the privilege of writing about the last Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Salm0n release for Worn & Wound in September. Serendipitously, Studio Underd0g was in Montreal the following week with the RedBar traveling road show. It was a real treat to see and handle their watches in person finally. They even had one of their Pizza watches and their Moser collaboration. The latter was quite exquisite, as was the new Salm0n, but part of me hoped that Studio Underdog wasn’t moving upscale, leaving behind what got them there in the first place: affordable, whimsical chronographs that make you smile when you look down at your wrist.
When I learned that Seagull had announced a new minimum order quantity of 10,000 units for their ST-19 series movements, I became concerned about Studio Underd0g’s most popular model, the 01SERIES. This worry was heightened by the brouhaha that followed the collaboration with Moser and the decision to use Sellita-based movements in their 03SERIES. Fear not, as Studio Underd0g has successfully contracted Seagull to create an exclusive and enhanced version of their caliber called the ST-1901B. This reaffirms their commitment to providing mechanical chronographs priced under $1,000.
For those unfamiliar with the history of the ST-19 column-wheel chronograph movement, its origins are Swiss. In 1961, Venus sold its machinery, tooling, and blueprints for the Venus 175 caliber to the Tianjin Watch Factory. They then upgraded the original 17-jewel movement to its own 19-jewel ST19 movement, a direct descendant of the Venus 175. It’s widely regarded as an affordable mechanical chronograph movement that offers excellent value. While it is robust and reliable, the inconsistent regulation of the chronograph’s eccentric screws can sometimes adversely affect its performance and longevity.
The new ST-1901B manually wound column-wheel chronograph movement will feature an upgraded Swan neck regulating system, allowing for more precise adjustment. Studio Underdog’s partner, Horologium in Great Britain, now regulates these movements to within -10 to +15 seconds per day, significantly improving the previous standard of -15 to +35 seconds per day. Cosmetically, the base plate is now black and provides a striking contrast to the bridges, wheels, and balance. It still operates at 21,600 beats per hour and has a power reserve of 45 to 50 hours, depending on whether the chronograph function is in use.
Besides securing the new movements, Richard Benc wasn’t finished upgrading his 01SERIES. He aimed to ensure that this would be the best version yet. To achieve this, he reduced the case height from 13.6mm to 12.9mm. He also increased the thickness of the crown to enhance the winding mechanism and proudly added the phrase “Assembled in Great Britain” to the dial. Additionally, he enlarged the diameter of the display back to provide a better view of the new movement. In my opinion, all of these refinements will further cement this series as a modern microbrand classic.
The third generation Studio Underd0g 01SERIES retains the same diameter of 38.5mm and lug-to-lug length of 44.5mm as the original. Made from 316L stainless steel, they are water-resistant to 50 meters. A double-domed sapphire crystal covers the dial, and there are four colorways: the original Watermel0n, the Desert Sky, the Go0fy Panda, and Mint Ch0c Chip. Each comes with a color-coordinated Saffiano leather strap with a tang buckle. The price is $675, and pre-orders will open on November 19th, 2024, for a limited time of 9 hours, from 10:00 am to 7:00 pm EST, on the Studio Underd0g website. I am thrilled to see Studio Underd0g continue dancing with the one that brought them.
