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It’s all about case and dial materials these days in the design world it seems, and Bell & Ross have certainly not shied away from experimentation. The French brand expands their repertoire of big, brash, and blocky timepieces with the new BR-X3 line, conceived as an avant-garde interpretation of the classic BR-03 design, and a cousin of the popular BR-X5, featuring two new models: Titanium Black and Blue Steel.
While the names of these new references are straightforward, their designs are everything but. Both feature the iconic rounded-square look that graces most Bell & Ross watches, with a round dial accentuated by a square case. Both cases measure 41mm in diameter, but likely wear bigger due to their shape and 13.30mm thickness. Three-plate dial construction, an openworked rubber strap, an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance are also standard on both watches. As a final shared element, both references are powered by a Calibre BR-CAL.323 automatic mechanical movement, which promises a hefty power reserve of 70- hours.
The differences between the two BR-X3 models are easily explained by their nomenclature, but worth diving into further nonetheless. Titanium watches are massively popular these days, and for good reason: they wear incredibly light on the wrist, regardless of size, and promise durability in spite of that weight. The Titanium Black BR-X3 follows that trend, featuring a micro-blasted grade 2 titanium case in an appropriately stealthy dark gray, with a matte black dial. “Baignore-style” applique indexes with Super-LumiNova X1 adorn the dial, as do skeletonised minute and hour hands, similarly lume’d. The dial elements—including a date window at 3 o’clock and a three-day power reserve window at 9, labeled “DATE” and “POWER” respectively—are aggressive and reminiscent of ‘90s action movie-styling. What results is a beefy, brutish watch that teeters between industrial elegance and retro-futuristic kitsch.
The Blue Steel model shares those dial elements, but shakes up the case construction, swapping titanium for stainless steel, and the gray and black color scheme for a much gentler silver and blue. Bell & Ross claim that this is meant to evoke the “aerospace universe”, though it feels more aquatic to me; nonetheless, it effectively tones down the camp of the Titanium Black model, and makes the BR-X3 appear more refined and professional, despite the technically much brighter colors. Naturally, the steel case also takes away a key selling point, but I think that the polished and shiny look also makes the watch a more versatile option that can be dressed up or down.
With emphasis on their long-standing design cues and aesthetic leanings, Bell & Ross have nonetheless opened the door to some interesting new stylistic direction with the new BR-X3 references. Though functionally identical, the Titanium Black and Blue Steel certainly appeal to two very different camps, and provide an intriguing start to what will likely be a solid new line of acquired-taste timepieces for the brand.
The Bell & Ross BR-X3 Titanium Black and Blue Steel retail for $8,300 and $7,200 respectively. Bell & Ross
