Latest Review
I want to preface this whole review by stating that I’m not that much of a yachtsman. My last experience on a “yacht” was when I helped a buddy of mine move his sailboat. We needed to move the boat a scant 20 miles. Except that was the distance when traveling by land. Luckily, we live on an island (a Long one) and had some available water to move the boat. 23 hours, nearly 100 miles, too much sun exposure, and many bags of chips later, we made it through a stretch of the Atlantic Ocean around Long Island, then up through NYC’s East River and into the Long Island Sound. On my wrist was a Bertucci Field Watch — not exactly the most suited timepiece for the job, but since we stayed in the boat and out of the water, it worked just fine. Perhaps the journey would have gone a bit smoother had I had the right watch for the job…like the Fears Brunswick Helmsman. If this watch was on wrist, maybe we could have avoided the three hours straight of choppy seas off the Rockaways, remembered to put some more sunscreen on, and not decided to put the sail up five minutes before hitting a random thunderstorm. Fears Watch Co. was much more considerate in designing their Brunswick 40 “Helmsman” – a cushion-cased watch sporting 200 meters of water resistance, a bright white dial, blue accents, and a vibe that’s right at home on a sailboat. Let’s take a closer look at this watch that was designed for “those who find themselves regularly at the helm of a yacht or boat”.
When I think of yachting, the recent Sail GP comes to mind. The official timekeeper of the event is Rolex, using the lightning-fast carbon fiber-laden boats to push their titanium Yacht-Master. When I think of modern watches with a tie to the ocean, it’s usually how deep can they go, how light can they be, can they track time via bezel? That’s not the case with the cushion-cased Fears Brunswick. It’s not what typically comes to mind when I imagine a watch that was meant to be worn in and around the water. It has a distinctly classic appearance, further enforced by the cushion case. First seen from Fears in the 1920s, the case shape is a reminder of a more classic time. Gentle curves rendered in brushed 316L stainless steel give the watch a soft appearance. There are no hard angles, with each component of the case flowing into the next. The mid case features a generously sized onion style crown, complete with the Fears logo signature on the side. In order to maintain the water resistance of 200 meters, the crown screws down, locking water out.
Surrounded by a plain steel bezel, the dial is a bright pop of white with blue accents. Chosen to cut down on glare and remain legible, the stark white dial is made more interesting with a subtle grained texture. It features applied indices that are lumed inside with SuperLuminova and surrounded by PVD blue coating. The PVD looks similar to a heat blued hand, but since it’s applied on the indices and hands, they are consistently colored and match each other perfectly — not always the case when using heat to achieve a similar hue. The dial is split up with a subtle line, giving sector dial vibes, but with less contrast. A Fears wordmark resides between the center of the dial and 12 o’clock, with no other text featured on the dial itself. The result is a clean, legible dial that you can quickly read at a glance. Surrounding the dial is a blue rehaut with hashmarks for every minute, numerals every 5, and “ENGLAND” in small text at the very bottom.
Flip the watch over, and you’re treated to a view of the La Joux-Perret LJP-G101 movement via the display casebook. The LJP inside is an automatic movement with a custom Fears rotor, colored blue to fit the seaworthy motif of the watch. The movement features 24 jewels, a 28,800bph beat rate, and an impressive 68 hours of power reserve. There’s no date to be found, and the movement reflects that with its lack of a phantom date position. It’s hand-windable via the generously sized and textured crown so you can energize the movement before wearing it.
The Helmsman comes fitted with a white sailcloth strap with an FKM rubber backing. You’ll find contrast blue stitching and a brushed buckle to match the case. I’ll be honest here, the white dial and white strap is a LOT of white. Take that with a grain of salt though, I once got called out for wearing a yellow tee shirt by both my kids because it was not my standard issue black. I tried the watch out on a grey rubber strap and liked the result much better. Since you’re working with white and blue, there are lots of colors that will suit the Brunswick, so don’t be scared off too much by the all white appearance. The default strap is nicely constructed with even stitching and a premium feel, emblazoned on the back with a “Handmade in Belgium” imprint. It features quick release spring bars, so swapping it out is a breeze.
One of the toughest things about writing about watches (my privilege is showing) is how to approach something that’s been sent for consideration that you would never in a million years pick out for yourself. I’m not saying that as if the Fears is a bad watch, by no means. I’m simply saying that a white dialed watch in a cushion case is not something you’d typically find on my wrist. The Brunswick 40 doesn’t really speak to me, and that’s okay but it will definitely speak to others. Fears has a cult following, and for good reason. The watch is nicely built from quality components. Fears isn’t afraid of offering interesting dial and strap color combinations, all while retaining a distinct look. The brand’s story is interesting too, with a family member reviving a classic brand from a 40 year slumber. As the owner of a third-generation family business, I can relate. The construction and finishing are on point with what you’d expect from this price range, with all of the elements featuring the level of precision synonymous with a watch reaching near $4,000. I particularly liked the dial execution, with gentle texture, great balance, and really sharp applied insides.
I’ve found myself guilty of using the price of a watch as a measure of value, which after hearing Kazan’s recent podcast section on pricing, probably isn’t the right way to approach it. Does the price matter? To some – yes, to others – not at all. Would I find myself picking up a Fears Brunswick Helmsman in bright white with a white sailcloth strap for my personal collection? No, probably not and that wouldn’t change if the price was $650 or $3650 (the watch clocks in at $3650, excluding VAT). That said, if you’re looking for something highly legible and off the beaten path that can hold its own around the water, the Helmsman is an interesting option. I’d be really curious to hear your take on value in the luxury watch industry and if that plays a part when you choose your next timepiece. Let us know in the comments below. Fears
