Introducing the Elegant Eterna Granges 1856 Collection

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There aren’t many current Swiss brands operating today that can match Eterna’s significance to the trajectory of horological history. From the founding of movement house ETA to the creation of the first automatic watch to feature ball bearings, Eterna’s contribution is undeniable. To celebrate 160 storied years of watchmaking, Eterna has just unveiled the Granges 1856 collection, a limited released named after Eterna’s year and place of birth. The collection features a series of classically styled watches currently available in four dial colors: Anthracite and Midnight Blue (Arabic numerals), light bronze (Roman numerals), and radiant silver (offered in both Roman and Arabic numerals). Each watch can be ordered on either a leather strap or a seven-link stainless steel bracelet for a total of ten different configurations.

eterna-granges-1856-blue-2The collection features a series of classically styled watches currently available in four dial colors: Anthracite and Midnight Blue (Arabic numerals), light bronze (Roman numerals), and radiant silver (offered in both Roman and Arabic numerals). Each watch can be ordered on either a leather strap or a seven-link stainless steel bracelet for a total of ten different configurations.

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The Eterna Granges 1856 collection offers wide range of dial colors.

Powering the collection is Eterna’s in-house 3030 automatic calibre with a big-date aperture at three. The 3030 is not a new addition to Eterna’s stable of movements. It was first introduced in 2006, and its design is based on the 1504 calibre—a fourth-generation central-rotor automatic movement first produced by Eterna in 1974. The 3030, however, is not a one-for-one copy of that original design, but rather a modernized take. Eterna calls the 3030 a domed movement because it’s designed to feature a convex profile on both sides. The two date wheels—which sit side by side and on the same level—are contoured so as to match the dome of the dial. The end result is a near seamless transition from dial to date.

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Finely finished Eterna 3030 calibre.
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The Granges 1856 is stunningly classic in all but one way—the size. Featuring a 42mm case  (with a thickness of about 11mm and a lug-to-lug height of nearly 51mm), it’s a bit larger than you want it to be. One can’t help but feel a scaled down version of this watch would be perfect. That said, the watch works despite its larger-than-ideal size, and the domed sapphire crystal ensures that the watch will slide right under a shirt cuff.

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The Granges 1856 looks elegant despite its size, even on a 6.75-inch wrist. Shirt courtesy of WearGustin; boots from Alden.

The dial is where the watch comes to life. The Midnight Blue featured here has a dramatic, inky appearance, accented with printed numerals at three, nine and 12, and applied indices at all other hour positions but three. As mentioned, the dial is dramatically domed, giving the watch a vintage look that many brands often fail to achieve when striving for a similar aesthetic.

eterna-granges-1856-blue-1Furthermore, the big-date immediately draws the eye. Normally, a contrasting date window at three would draw my ire, but the big-date is such an intentional design choice that it feels appropriate here. The handset—faceted dauphine hands—is a classic choice, and feels appropriately paired to the dial. The long hour and second hands are rightly curved at the ends to match the slope of the dial and crystal.

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Note how the date wheels curve to match the shape of the dial, resulting in no gap between the dial and date wheel.

The new Granges 1856 collection will be sold exclusively through Eterna’s online boutique. Eterna is also offering an engraving service free of charge, allowing owners to inscribe a short message along the watch case.

The Eterna Granges 1856 will retail for $5,000 on leather and 5,200 on bracelet. To purchase, visit Eterna.

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Ilya is Worn & Wound's Managing Editor and Video Producer. He believes that when it comes to watches, quality, simplicity and functionality are king. This may very well explain his love for German and military-inspired watches. In addition to watches, Ilya brings an encyclopedic knowledge of leather, denim and all things related to menswear.
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