Introducing the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Ref. SBGE249 (Limited Edition with Timeless Luxury)

From the beloved “snowflake” and  the Mt. Iwate variants of recent years, to the recent Seasons collection, Grand Seiko has a proud tradition of creating watches inspired by elements found in nature. The brand’s latest — Ref. SBGE249 — is a limited edition Spring Drive model developed with Texas-based AD Timeless Luxury Watches, and it follows in that natural tradition with a dial inspired by the blizzards of Shirojiri, Japan where Grand Seiko’s Shinshu Studio is located.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT Ref. SBGE249 (Timeless LE)

  • Case Material: Stainless steel
  • Dial: Silver grain (inspired by the blizzards of Shirojiri, Japan)
  • Dimensions: 41mm
  • Crystal: Double-domed sapphire with AR
  • Water Resistance: 10 bar
  • Crown: Push pull
  • Movement: Grand Seiko 9R66 Spring Drive GMT
  • Strap/bracelet: Steel bracelet with deployant clasp
  • Price: $5,900
  • Expected Release: August/September 2019


The case measures 41mm across and features a pleasing mix of finishes, with the brushed tops of the lugs playing nicely against the zaratsu-polished sides. Around back, an open case back shows off the engine. Powering the watch is Grand Seiko’s 9R66 Spring Drive caliber, which features a PR indicator, a GMT complication, and a whopping 72 hours of power reserve. Accuracy is rated to +/- 10 seconds a month.

The dial then is the star of the show. With its silvery grain, the surface is an elegant backdrop for all the typical Grand Seiko dial furniture. The diamond-cut hour indexes look stunning here, as do the the razor-sharp hands, polished all the way through and beveled along their edges. Blue accents the dial through printing on the dial itself, and via three heat-blued hands (the GMT hand, seconds hand, and PR hand). A flange along the perimeter of the dial houses the GMT’s 24-hour scale.

With Grand Seiko, the devil is always in the details. What I especially like about this watch is how it so deftly balances its dressy and sporty elements to create a watch that is, to my sensibilities, exceptionally versatile. GMTs can look out of place on dressier pieces, but here the complication looks right at home against the dial’s more refined details. The case itself leans on the sportier side of things, especially at 41mm (in my experience, these 41mm Grand Seiko cases wear quite well and smaller than the measurements might have you believe). It’s not dainty, and it’s spec’d nicely with a 10 bar water-resistance rating. Altogether, I think this an excellent offering from Grand Seiko, and one that, in my opinion, would make for a great daily wear watch.

This limited edition will be available through Timeless this August/September. Limited to just 250 pieces, these watches are priced at $5,900. Grand Seiko via Timeless

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Ilya is Worn & Wound's Managing Editor and Video Producer. He believes that when it comes to watches, quality, simplicity and functionality are king. This may very well explain his love for German and military-inspired watches. In addition to watches, Ilya brings an encyclopedic knowledge of leather, denim and all things related to menswear.