In addition to the entirely new Black Bay Pro, Tudor announced new gold accented variants to their existing Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Chronograph collections. Tudor has a way with gold that we’re admittedly suckers for here at Worn & Wound. If it’s possible to do a precious metal in a way that’s not remotely ostentatious, Tudor has basically mastered the art (example #1: the very first Black Bay Chrono in steel and gold). There’s a subtlety to their two-tone work that doesn’t undermine the inherent “tooliness” of a Tudor sports watch, and that’s very much the case with these entries to their catalog.
First, we’ll touch on the new Black Bay GMT S&G (Tudor’s term for a two-tone watch in steel and gold). It’s somewhat hard to believe when you consider the Black Bay GMT’s popularity in enthusiast circles, but this is the first new variant of their GMT since the original’s launch back in 2018 (which, you may remember, also launched alongside a major GMT release from sister brand Rolex). The new GMT S&G leans hard into nostalgia with a color palette that will have many thinking of vintage Rolex, or simply highly patinated sports watches from a generation or two ago. The bezel is split between black and a reddish brown, and we’ve got gold accents on the bezel’s outer rim, throughout the dial (hands and markers), and on the crown. If you opt for the bracelet (it’s also available on leather and Tudor’s now familiar textile strap), you also get gold center links to complement everything and complete the look.
The GMT S&G has the same dimensions as the original Black Bay GMT, which means a chunky 41mm diameter with steep slab sides. It features Tudor’s chronometer certified MT5652, which has true GMT functionality (local jumping hours) and a generous 70 hour power reserve. On the wrist, it wears just like any other full size Black Bay. In other words, it’s big. It might be too big for some (especially given the alternatives, new and old), but if an imposing two-tone GMT in a well executed vintage design holds some appeal, this is a solid option.
On the chronograph front, Tudor released a new version of the Black Bay Chrono S&G, wasting no time to follow up a watch that made its debut only a year ago. Last year’s watches were nearly monochromatic, in panda dial layouts both reverse and forward. This year, we get a very gold forward dial, with black subdials at 3:00 and 9:00, and a date window cut at the 6:00 position. A black tachymeter bezel provides contrast to the dial while complementing the subdials, and the pushers and crown have been rendered in gold. As with the GMT, the bracelet version of the watch has gold center links, which we think is the way to go if you want to lean into the two-tone look.
No surprise here, but the case size remains 41mm. What is perhaps a little surprising is that in-person it feels a little large, more so than the GMT, which by the numbers has the same footprint. This is likely because of the bright gold dial, which has a real luster and presents very differently than the vintage sports watch inspired matte black Black Bays we’re all very used to by now. Inside, the watch is running on Tudor’s MT5813 chronograph movement, which features a column wheel, vertical clutch, and 70 hours of power reserve.
The new GMT and chronograph are available immediately through Tudor authorized dealers. The GMT starts at $4,300 and tops out at $5,550 on the bracelet, and the chronograph is priced at $6,000 on fabric and leather, or $7,250 on the two-tone bracelet. Tudor