A Second Look at this Year’s New Rolex Novelties

Editor’s Note: Earlier this week, Rolex held an event in New York City to showcase their latest 2025 releases. We saw most of these watches in Geneva at Watches & Wonders a few months ago, but this was the first time going hands-on with the latest from Rolex for Devin Pennypacker and Garrett Jones. These are their reactions and impressions, as well as a whole bunch of photos (with natural light!) from Garrett. 

Devin Pennypacker: There is a saying that gets murmured around the start of Watches and Wonders: The show goes as Rolex goes. This year, however, I was left with a feeling that Rolex was chasing trends rather than setting them for the first time in a long while. New announcements saw them leaning into pastel colors, stone dials, and even integrated bracelets to highlight their 2025 collection. To put it mildly, I was disappointed that there wasn’t immediately a model that stuck out to me as a winner of the bunch. That being said, I also didn’t have the opportunity to go hands-on with the new collection, so every thought was mere speculation. During a recent event in New York, I had the chance to spend some time with many of the new releases, form genuine opinions, and model the watches for our photography by Garrett Jones. Afterwards, Garret and I sat down to discuss a few releases we had time with, delivering our thoughts and feelings towards some of the collection, which we will have staggered below. As always, please leave your takes on these new releases in the comments field below, and I’ll be down there to discuss.

Garrett Jones: This event for me in particular was really the first opportunity that I’ve had to interact with Rolex as a brand and to also go hands-on with a lot of these models. As someone who’s continuing to dive into the watch industry, both in a professional capacity and as an enthusiast, I often see these flagship models discussed and used for comparisons, but it’s difficult to really comprehend the points made without having experienced the watches. Getting to see these watches in person, feel the proportions, and actually try them on is essential, and really helped me get a sense of the brand and where they are going.

Oyster Perpetual

Garrett: I have never been a massive fan of any watch within the Oyster Perpetual line. I just don’t care for the plain steel bezels. I understand that it is more of a dressy watch, and I do think it looks great for what it is, but I am not the target audience. That being said, I do like the new pastel dial colors. The three different size options are also great. You are covering a lot of the intended audience there while leaning into the color hype. Personally, it’s just not a model that resonates with me at all, and thus, the watches I spent the least time with during the event. 

Devin: Rolex realized that size doesn’t matter, finally bringing its new dial colors to every case diameter option in the Oyster Perpetual line. Beige, Lavender, and Pistachio are nice additions to the boldly colored current dial collection. Personally, I was really fond of the Pistachio dial, though I still think that others pulled off the color better and sooner. Beige has undoubtedly entered the hype cycle, while the Lavender dial seems to have been slightly buried. Apart from the dial colors, Rolex has refined the Oyster case and slimmed down the clasp slightly, elevating the look and feel of the OP.  Overall, it is a more visually pleasing package, and it is nice to see Rolex paying special attention to this collection, which is often viewed as the entry point into the brand. The real downside is the announcement that the Celebration dials are officially discontinued. 

1908

Garrett: Spec-wise, I actually don’t know much about the 1908 as it’s a collection of watches that falls very far outside of my normal interest. As someone who is not typically into dress watches, I will admit that I like these a lot. I prefer the newer version of the bracelet over the leather strap options because it crafts a more complete overall package. That being said, I do wish that these had fitted endlinks with a tighter fit to the case. I find myself staring at the gap more than admiring its craftsmanship. The very slim coin-edge bezel is a really nice touch.

Devin: 2025 has been called “The Year Of” many things really, but one of those titles has to be about the bracelets. I waxed poetic about the Jaeger-LeCoultre pink gold Milanese mesh bracelet and share a similar sentiment to the new Settimo bracelet. Not to be confused with ordinary yet excellent Jubilee, the Settimo is a seven-link design crafted exclusively for the 1908 collection, further distinguishing the vintage visuals of the collection. Its flattened, fully polished construction drapes over the wrist like an elegant hug thanks to the smaller scale of its parts. In a show of modesty, the clasp remains hidden, betrayed only by a single golden crown catch. 

Bracelet aside, I found myself really enjoying the 1908’s white and black dial versions more than I expected. Like many enthusiasts, I got a bit distracted by the dazzling visuals of pale blue rice grain guilloche during its reveal last year. The simpler visuals offered by the more traditional dial allow the other details to stand out as your eye wanders. The dressiest collection in the Rolex catalog, the 1908 secretly pulls off some technical prowess as well, offering a view of the Calibre 7140 with its Paraflex shock absorbing system and Syloxi hairspring through the seethrough caseback. It would be great to see the Settimo bracelet make its way into white gold for those 1908 models as well. Who knows, maybe we will see a pink or rose gold 1908 at Watches and Wonders 2026.     

Daytona 

Garrett: Personally, the single Daytona model that stood out on the shockingly crowded table was the 18kt Everose gold-cased meteorite dial on the black Oysterflex rubber strap. It was not just a highlight of the Daytons but the ultimate highlight of the event. Historically speaking, the Daytona has never been a personal grail despite being that for many other enthusiasts. Getting to see this one in person, though, helped me understand the hype better. The case’s proportions, the dial’s layout, and the way it fit on my wrist made it hard to put back down. This particular meteorite used for the dial did seem a little plain and pale compared to other meteorite slices I have seen and appreciated in the past. But it all just works really well together. It also made me realize that I quite love rose gold as a watch case material. 

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Devin: Precious metal Rolex Daytonas now outnumber steel with a staggering 45 to 2, proving time and time again that the sports watch icon has moved up a few weight classes. Despite everyone else clamoring for the gold and green John Mayer 2.0, that is not the model I chose to spend the most time with. It was there, I tried it on, appreciated it, and then promptly moved on, returning to the rest of the Daytona section. There was also the not-Tiffany turquoise blue lacquer dial with yellow gold case. This Cosmograph Daytona leaned into its striking color contrast, though one that is not personally too appealing to me. Another, cast in white gold, sported a deep blue dial equipped with color-matched subdials only using a subtle bit of red and white to separate them on the sunburst dial. It creates a nice change of pace from the traditional contrasting registers we are used to and crafts perhaps the most under-the-radar Daytona in terms of visuals. Despite my typical disdain for brown, the sunburst chocolate dial cased in Everose gold was something to admire. The warm hues casting romantic visuals despite the lack of contrast hindering legibility. Needless to say, we were spoiled for choice. But just like Garrett, I found myself cosmically drawn to the meteorite dial variations. 

With three different options in gold, the meteorite dials made use of ther jagged edges and dark subdials to punch up the design language. The white gold initially reads as a bit traditional from afar until the dials fine lines draw your eyes in and the heft in hand triggers the realization that this is no ordinary Daytona. Yellow gold creates a blunt contrast especially as the Rolex crown on the dial grabs light and refuses to let go. But the combination of Everose gold warmth and deep space chill from the meteorite come together in fantastic fashion. Accented by the black Cerachrom bezel and black Oysterflex bracelet, this particular Daytona is one that would actually find its way onto my hype list.

Sky-Dweller 

Garrett: The Rolex Sky-Dweller has always been one of those watches I admired from afar. I’d occasionally spot it on someone’s wrist, but never had the opportunity to spend quality time with it. That changed recently, and I finally got to experience what this timepiece truly offers. Upon first handling, the heft of the solid yellow gold case was immediately noticeable. The green sunray dial is great, especially when paired with the yellow gold. It’s a classic Rolex combination that continues to be iconic. The fluted bezel, a signature of the brand, catches light beautifully, adding to the watch’s overall draw.

Devin: Finally the iconic yellow gold and money green make their way to the most complicated watch in the Rolex collection, the Sky-Dweller. Apart from the new contrasting color combination, there is not really much to report here other than the obvious, it’s pretty cool. Thankful they had it for us on the Jubilee bracelet rather than the Oyster, the way it should be in my mind. However, it does add $1,200 to the overall price, so pick your poison. That aside, it finally gives the oft-overlooked Sky-Dweller its due moment to shine. 

GMT-Master II

Garrett: The left-hand “Sprite” GMT-Master II is one of those watches that feels both familiar and refreshingly different. The green and black bezel gives it a playful edge, but the layout still feels grounded in Rolex’s tool-watch roots. As someone who usually wears watches on my right wrist to avoid crown dig, the lefty configuration is surprisingly comfortable — a small but meaningful detail that makes a difference in daily wear.

Finished in white gold with a slimmer case profile, it wears lighter than you might expect, especially compared to heavier offerings like the yellow gold Sky-Dweller. The color combo stands out just enough without being flashy — balanced, refined, and functional. It’s the kind of watch that quietly earns its place in a collection, especially for those who travel often or just appreciate a well-executed GMT.

Devin: First things first, I am a Coke head. For me it is just the best bezel color option that I would like to see make its way into the GMT-Master II lineup. Sprite being a Coke product, I guess it’s close enough for now. Second, yes, that is my wrist. Yes, I intentionally wore it on the that wrist. 

We have seen a lefty GMT-Master II before, in a similar color scheme, though with the option of Jubilee or Oyster rather than just an Oyster bracelet and in Oystersteel rather than white gold. Not that either of those are incredibly notable, though bringing a precious metal case into a model family that still largely favors steel might be of note to some. The real story with the new reference is the dial. The first ever ceramic dial from Rolex, its green hue is vibrant with a slightly liquid characteristic as if an algae filled pool holding floating indices. At this point ceramic is far from revolutionary but hopefully opens the door to more color experimentation down the road.

Land-Dweller

Garrett: The Land-Dweller is one of those watches that caught a lot of flack from the enthusiast community, and I can see where some of that comes from. But in person, it’s a surprisingly compelling piece. I’m typically not drawn to integrated bracelet designs, but this one just works. The dial texture — almost a cross between a hunting camo and a guilloché — adds a layer of depth that makes the watch feel more considered than it might at first glance. I may be in the minority but I really like the dial texture.

While I usually gravitate toward larger watches in the 40–43mm range, I actually found the 36mm version of this watch to be a better fit — especially for something that leans dressier. The polished and brushed finishing gives it a subtle two-tone look, and though the open caseback is a nice touch, I wouldn’t have minded a solid one either. There’s a lot of movement tech going on inside, but even just from a visual standpoint, I think it’s a strong offering. It might not have lived up to every enthusiast’s wishlist, but taken on its own terms, I quite like it. 

Devin: Credit where credit is due, a lot of integrated bracelet watches on the market tend to wear much bigger than their case diameter would lead on. I personally felt that the Rolex Land-Dweller wore true to its dimensions if not feeling slightly smaller. I was also blown away at how comfortable the Land-Dweller is on wrist. The case curves slightly towards the wearer, the flattened Jubilee drapes around the wrist fabulously, and the hidden clasp tucks under the crown,  remaining invisible and unfelt until it’s time to take it off. 

Unfortunately, there are some aspects that truly baffle me. It’s a strange move to introduce the Land-Dweller, a name that implies everyday use and maybe even adventure by foot, without a simple bracelet or more legible dial. The Explorer-like numerals are somewhat lost in the business of the texture behind them. The better contrasting models are only available in platinum or Everose, adding a multiplier to the price (we did not see the platinum at this event). Further, I still prefer to look at it from behind, admiring the movement far more than the honeycomb dial. It’s rare for Rolex to offer a glimpse at their movements, which have been criticized as being more industrially finished than their competitors. But here, Rolex is proud of its new 5hz Calibre 7135, as it should be. Hopefully, this is just a sign of things to come, and the movement makes its way into more models from the crown.

Speaking to the other important aspect, offering a true 36mm and 40mm option right out of the gate indicates that Rolex knows exactly what size the enthusiast audience calls for and should set a precedent for others to follow. Both fit extremely well on my large wrists, which you can see in our double-wristed comparison shot. The Everose gold model, as you would expect, offered a significant weight to the model, which personally feels out of place due to the reasons mentioned earlier. If Rolex had chosen a different name than Land-Dweller, would there be the same discourse? Some for sure, but probably not nearly as much. An all-important plug that having the right people in marketing is essential. 

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