Hands-On: the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Enamel Infinite Grey

There is a good possibility that Girard-Perregaux may remain an if-you-know-you-know pick when it comes to the luxury watch market, but it’s not for lack of trying. Its recent vintage reissue, partnerships with Aston Martin F1, and focus on different sizing options with unique design languages indicates their desire for mainstream acceptance. Despite these efforts, competitors like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe still seem to overshadow the brand and dominate the hyped up market space when discussing integrated bracelet sports watches with heritage designs. With their latest release, Girard-Perregaux is aiming to showcase its technical know-how and craftsmanship pedigree rather than following the same tired trends like so many others in the space. Emphasizing its in-house ground-up construction, the new Girard-Perregaux Laureato Enamel Infinite Grey leans into the initial under-the-radar vibes to snatch your attention with interesting new details. However, they do come at a price. 

Case

It should be a known quantity at this point, but I still find myself surprised at the case architecture and finishing almost every time I handle a Laureato. At first glance, it presents as many other integrated bracelet watches do, with a hefty presence and no shortage of conspicuous steel. Though the more time you spend poring over its blend of straight and curved lines, the more you appreciate the visual cohesion between angular and organic. Bouncing between polished and finely brushed surfaces, the integrated bracelet steel sports watch epitomizes the boardroom to bar vibe, finding a home on the wrist of the stockbroker taking the edge off at market close. 

At 42 millimeters in diameter, the Laureato provides adequate space for its details to shine while using technical prowess to avoid overpowering midsized wrists. The thin 10.68 millimeter case lies flat until its abrupt curve begins towards the bracelet on the relatively short lugs. Due to its fine horizontal brushing, I have always found that the lugs seem to stutter a bit while making the arc, though it is a detail only noticeable in direct light and by the ultra-picky like myself. Breaking up the brushed surface is a hairline polished facet on the case’s outer edge, easing the transition to the vertically brushed case sides. A polished disk provides a step up towards the bezel while cultivating a tumultuous love-hate relationship with the wearer. While this bit of polishing feels like an extension of the dial, elevating the design’s visual appeal, it also acts as a dust catcher, only reachable by the edge of a cloth. While I’d never advocate for its removal, I highly suggest having a few Q-Tips ready to plunge into the sharp corner should you want to take a few macro photos. Set just above, the octagonal bezel protects the crystal, allowing its brushed sloping surface to pick up minor bumps and scuffs without much visual indication. 

Bracelet/Wearability

As alluded to when mentioning the case, its shape and relatively short 48.9 millimeter lug-to-lug measurement allow this watch to fit the masses regardless of wrist size and despite its large diameter. Most of that is thanks to the bracelet, which, with an integrated design, is crucial to get right. The three-link design again blends brushing and polishing to elevate its appearance with enough articulation to drape nicely for a comfortable fit. Much to the photographer’s chagrin, the polished central link tends to hold every fingerprint possible, while the brushed outer links limit visual wear. Following the aggressive to gradual taper, the bracelet terminates at a debossed GP butterfly clasp, which may make finding the perfect fit difficult due to its lack of micro-adjustment. That aside, the smaller nature of the links closest to the clasp should help get it close enough to be comfortable for everyday use. Overall, the Laureato is a delightful watch to throw on and forget about until called upon.

Dial

Gentle hues of blue peek out from the grey enamel surface adorning the focal point of the new Laureato. Milled in a sunray pattern, the blooming dial radiates from its center as each protruding rectangle increases in size towards its outer edge. It is a departure from the classic hobnail pattern we are used to on the Laureato though not completely unfamiliar as it has been used in other recent limited edition models. The flinqué sunray motif is pale yet deep thanks to its ridging and chosen hue. Special care has been taken to ensure that dial details do not detract from the primary dial surface as the indices and hands remain devoid of lume and instead are crafted in simpler shapes before polishing. At three, the date window goes almost unnoticed with a color matched primary surface and white scripted numerals matching the white printed text on the dial. The visual design language is a love letter to the in-house Grand Feu enamel process taken on by a branch within the Sowind Group. While some may cry foul at a 100 meter water resistant everyday sport watch skipping the lume treatment, the addition of stark white markers would have ultimately pulled the eye away from what is truly important with the design. 

Movement

Completing the in-house sandwich is the automatic GP01800 caliber visible through the caseback. Technically the 2524 variation of the same caliber found in standard Laureato models, this version features a bold pink gold rotor with circular Côtes de Genève. It acts as the watch’s only opulent flash as its warm hues spin around the cold steel surrounds. Comprised of 191 components, the under 4 millimeter thick movement is well finished with bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève, mirror-polished screws, beveled edges, circular graining on the main plate, and gilded engravings calling attention to fine details. Operating at a smooth 4 Hz, it achieves a minimum power reserve of 54 hours which is more than adequate and roughly in the middle of the pack compared to its contemporaries. 

Concluding Thoughts

While I certainly like the visual and material updates to the Laureato, there are two critiques that keep ping-ponging in my mind as I think about this watch. First, I wish the enamel dial leaned a bit heavier into the enamel. The material tends to come into its own with thicker applications allowing the almost liquid appearance of the glass to create elegant and tumultuous curves along its edges. Instead, the thinner application in use here does well to keep the sharp pattern beneath as a focal point but leaves me wondering if a similar visual could not have been achieved with a less expensive lacquer. Don’t get me wrong, the color is fantastic and the pattern mesmerising, but when looking at enamel I personally want to feel like the color is devilishly waiting to drip onto the floor rather than clinging to pointed edges. 

The second point has to be the updated price point. With the standard Laureato coming in at retail just over $14,000, it seems to indicate that the enamel application (and failure rate associated with this process) along with the pink gold rotor are the only cause for the $3,600 price increase. While it’s not ridiculous nor unreasonable to see a price increase for these options, the amount seems a bit steep and does the one thing I never wanted to see the Laureato do: retail for more than the Piaget Polo. Oftentimes we speak about the Laureato being an under the radar pick for those who are interested in the Royal Oak or Nautilus based on pedigree and design language without making mention of the Polo lurking in the dark. No, the Polo is not an integrated bracelet watch, though it is certainly designed in a similar vein with similar specifications touting case thinness made possible by the movement. Chances are good that if you are considering one you may be considering the other, and lets face it, they each need all the help they can get when facing the wider market. Personally, I believe the Girard-Perregaux Laureato to be the better option in terms of design and overall finishing, but price is the great equalizer. 

Though it may not steal too many headlines, I find the Infinite Grey to be a notable release and expansion to the collection that I hope attracts more eyeballs to the Laureato in general. Its overall construction and finishing are nice enough to hold their own against the competition while letting the movement and new dial set it apart. While grey may seem like a boring choice on paper, the depth and shiftyness of it makes this Laureato really compelling. I’ve said it before, but if you were to simply switch the G with an A on the dial the price would triple and a waitlist would ensue. For now though, I will enjoy rooting for the underdog. Girard-Perregaux