Review: Lorier Falcon

Though the brand is less than a year old at the time of writing this review, Lorier has made quite the name for themselves in the micro-brand watch world. Their first watch, the Neptune (which we reviewed here) was an immediate hit, bringing together on-trend vintage aesthetics and great attention for detail at a price you couldn’t argue with. In fact, it was such a success that the brand was met with far more demand than expected, leading to that oh-so-tempting “sold out” sign to grace their website, perpetuating a viral success.

Unlike many small brands in their infancy, Lorier met this challenge head-on, stabilizing their supply and quickly expanding on their initial offering—an impressive feat for the timeframe. Now with three lines of watches and more planned for the future, Lorier is aiming to make an even bigger impact in 2019.

Today, we’re taking a look at the Falcon, a fixed-bezel sport watch that builds on the mid-century story that the Neptune started. In the spirit of classic gentlemen’s sport watches like the Rolex Explorer and the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic, the Falcon is a tool watch with an elegant demeanor that belies its sporty build. In what I hope is also the start of a trend, Lorier went for a waffle texture for the dial, an unmistakable retro detail.

Lorier opted for a modular approach to their first three watches, meaning that they use a handful of the same components, but to three different ends. This is a similar approach to what Nodus did with the Contrail, and Halios did with the Seaforth. Notably, they have the same 39-millimeter mid-cases, hands, and exceptional bracelets (more on that later), and they’re all powered by Seiko’s NH35 automatic movement. Dials, crystals and bezels are all different, giving the watches their distinct personalities and purposes within the collection. This is a smart approach as it allows for the brand to enjoy economies of scale with components while also creating a broader catalog.

As for the case itself, it is worth reusing as it is a great design. Measuring 39 x 48 x 12 millimeters (14.4 millimeters with the crystal), it’s a solid small/mid-sized case. A few years ago, we would have simply called it “small,” but today 39 millimeters feels like a medium. With the long lug-to-lug and the substantial, but not overwhelming, thickness (thanks to the good proportions here), it also feels like a solid sport watch—a claim that is also backed by the 200-meter water resistance. Though thoroughly modern in feel and scale, there are a couple of vintage details here, among them the box acrylic crystal and the oversized screw-down crown. The lugs are drilled for good measure.
Design aside, the real standout aspect of the Falcon case is the finishing. The brushing along the case sides and bezel has a noticeable and elegant texture. Polishing on the bevels and lip of the bezel adds a nice contrast and all surfaces are separated by sharp, clean lines. While good finishing unto itself is not necessarily special, considering the accessible price point of the Falcon, it’s great to see that it wasn’t looked over.

The dial of the Falcon balances Lorier’s mid-century objectives with a unique eye that makes sure their watches don’t get lost in the mix. Available in three colors, the Hunter Green option seen here stands out thanks to its subtle mix of color and gilt accents. The dial surface is a deep, dark green with a slight metallic sheen. As mentioned before, it has been stamped with a “waffle” pattern of crisscrossing lines, giving it an all-over texture that picks up little flecks of light across the dial surface. A very mid-century touch, it makes the watch by giving it character that it might have lacked otherwise.On this surface are long, thin applied rectangles for the hours that double at 12. Each features a thin, brushed gold surround filled with BGW9 luminous paint. Between the markers are thin printed lines in a faux-gilt metallic paint that looks nice and matches the appliques close enough. At six is a well-executed date window showing the white-on-black date disk. Though not a perfect match to the green, it’s not so off as to clash, but what stands out is the shape and placement of the window.

Six is often a good spot for a date window as it aids in balancing a dial, and because of the smaller overall size of the watch, the window is also well positioned in terms of distance from the dial edge and center, just riding along the edges of the minute markers. The best part is the window shape, however, which is a keystone shape that tapers in, emulating lines pointing to the center of the dial. This gives the window a more organic feel. Lastly, instead of a heavy applied window or a blind edge, Lorier opted for a thin gilt border which highlights the window without calling too much attention to it.

For the hands, Lorier stuck with the set used on their Neptune and Hydra divers, creating a sort of trilogy. Rendered in brushed gold-tone, the minute hand is a modified alpha with a rounded back, and the hour adds an arrow tip, making it very easy to distinguish between the two on the fly. It’s a nice looking set of hands that, while perhaps initially designed for a dive watch, do feel at home on this more general sport watch. They manage to be bold and elegant, and though they’re not a truly unique design, they’re different enough to not feel like a cloned component. Along with the dial, which is also its own spin, the Falcon isn’t vintage pastiche, but it does look like it perhaps could have been conceived in the mid-twentieth century.

Featured on all of their watches, the bracelet is almost reason enough to pick up the Falcon or one of its siblings. Featuring a sharp 4-millimeter taper and flat-surface links, the bracelet has a vintage look, but it feels completely modern—and, frankly, high-end—in execution. It’s the flat, fully brushed top surface that makes the difference, visually at least.

In terms of feel, the bracelet is just the right thickness, and it’s neither too stiff nor too wiggly, giving it just the right amount of movement. The links also fully articulate, allowing for the bracelet to bend around the wrist with ease. The clasp is small and features dual push-button locking to make it secure without adding uncomfortable bulk under the wrist. Lastly, the bracelet features single-sided screwbars in the adjustable links, making it very easy size to the wrist.

With the tried-and-true NH35 movement inside, the Falcon has a reliable and serviceable heart. Combined with the superb styling, excellent finishing, and the first-in-class bracelet, for $399 the Falcon is a fantastic deal.

I’m at a bit of a loss for things to criticize as everything is actually above expectation at the price point, and the aesthetics are both cool and distinctive. Sure, it could have been thinner, but it doesn’t wear thick so you don’t really notice it and the movement options at the price point don’t give the brand much choice. All in all, it’s just a very successful watch if you like the look of it. And if the Falcon is not quite for you, perhaps either the Neptune or Hydra divers will be. Either way, the Falcon is a solid follow up for Lorier, who seem to be poised for a very strong year. Lorier