It’s actually kind of astounding that the GMT remains such a highly desired complication. In fact, it seems that a worldwide pandemic that virtually halted international travel for upwards of a year across much of the world only increased our collective desire for objects that speak to our yearning to explore. There are more travel watches to choose from than ever before (we just brought you news of another new one this week) and it doesn’t seem like the push for these watches is slowing down anytime soon. But how many times can you really iterate on such a tried and true formula? It’s not out of bounds to say that Rolex may well have perfected the format for these watches decades ago, and every GMT watch that has come since has been merely an imitation. It’s rare that you see something truly different. Serica, with their latest release, has made what at first appears to be a small change to a core component of the GMT watch, but after thinking it through it feels, potentially, far more significant. It’s certainly the brand’s most ambitious release to date.
Serica Introduces their First GMT, the 8315
The 8315 is Serica’s first dedicated travel watch, and the aesthetic notes that it hits are planted firmly in travel’s golden age. You know what I’m referring to here. A period of time where nobody would ever think to do something so crass as to take their shoes off on a plane, and cabins felt less like sardine tins and more like a relaxing oasis miles above the chaos on the ground below. Sure, you might have had to deal with people smoking cigarettes on your flight, but with everyone so nattily dressed, it hardly seems worth complaining about. It’ll be years before we fully understand the public health implications, anyway.
The black and white colorway feels like it’s smack in the middle of Serica’s distinctive house design language at this point, and the handset and hour marker arrangement are carried over from previous releases, ensuring a clean throughline between all of the brand’s watches. At first glance, you might think this is just Serica’s take on that classic Rolex look, and in some ways it certainly is, but check out the bezel. Rather than a traditional 24 hour bezel, Serica’s is focused on the split between night and day, with the bottom half in white reflecting a “6 to 6” timeframe, and the top half in black doing the same without tracking hours 12-24. It’s more difficult to explain than it is to read. A nice touch of the bezel is that the division is asymmetrical, which Serica says was done to improve readability and to reflect that the “day” is visually longer than the evening period.
As you’d expect with Serica, there are some premium touches and small design details that set this watch apart. Serica is particularly proud of the bezel’s construction, which is from a single block of ceramic and has been given a polished finish. The dial is described as “black enameled,” which should conjure images of old school glossy dial Rolex sports watches, and Serica has given the GMT hand a lollipop tip, which is something of a whimsical touch.
The case is 39mm in diameter and features alternating brushed and polished finishes. The twisted lugs found on prior Serica watches remain on the 8315, but you won’t find any unusual endlink attachment seen on the 5303 in this watch – the case mounts to a leather strap in the traditional way. The case is 12.3mm thick and measures 46.5mm from lug to lug.
Powering the watch is a chronometer certified Soprod C125 automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve. If there’s a gripe with the 8315, at least from a specs point of view, it’s that Serica has elected to go with a GMT caliber that does not support independent jumping of the local hour hand. Still, the draw of this watch might be largely aesthetic for many – it really has a distinct look to it. And the odd nature of the bezel might actually make it better suited to a “caller” style approach.
The retail price on the 8315 is approximately $1,535 after currency conversion and the removal of VAT. More information can be found on the Serica website.